TT960 







THE PROGRESSIVE BARBER 

A BOOK FOR THE APPRE.NTICE 
AND FOR THE BARBER 



IDE.SCRIBINO THE 

ANATOMY AND PHYSIOLOGY 
OF THE SKIN 

DISEASEIS OF THE: SKIN 

THAT ARE OF SPECIAL INTEREST TO THE 
BARBER 

ANn 

THE USE OF ANTISEIPTICS 

AND THEIR VALUE, 



By 

ARNOLD DREXEL. M. D. 
mii_"wauk.e.e:.. 

WIS. 



^^^"^^ 



JUL \Q t909 



r 



Copyriglit. 190«5> 

By 

Tine Wisconsin State Barbers' Boaurd 

of &3caminers 



preface: 

The author of this book took special pains to avoid 
as much as possible, all medical terms that may confuse 
the apprentice, or the barber. The anatomy and physi- 
ology of the skin is described in detail, because refer- 
ences are made to them frequently in the after reading. 
Only the diseases that are of interest to the barber are 
mentioned. The treatments for the various diseases 
mentioned were purposely omitted, because the barber 
is not allowed by law to treat diseases. Only the most 
valuable antiseptics are recommended. The reader 
should not condemn the author on account of the so 
frequently mentioning of alcohol as an antiseptic or a 
disinfectant, as he considers it the cleanest, strongest 
and quickest acting disinfectant, which can be easily 
employed, that leaves no odor, and does no harm to the 
barber's instruments. 

A. D. 



ANATOMY OF THE SKIN 

The skin forms the external covering of the whole 
surface of the body and is in intimate relation with the 
underlying structures. Its outer surface is not uniform 
to the eye nor to the touch. The color varies con- 
siderably with age, sex, race, and climate, as well as in 
different localities of the body in the same individual. 
The dark color of the skin depends upon the presence 
of a layer, or smaller number of blackish-brown pigment 
granules in the upper layers of the skin. The thick- 
ness greatly differs in different regions, being most pro- 
nounced over the palms of the hands and the soles of 
the feet, least so, over the eyelids and the genitals. On 
close inspection we will see numerable ridges, furrows, 
and pores, and the presence of various sized hairs, and 
on the lingers and toes, the hardened nail formation. 
The furrows are either long and deep, or short and 
superficial, dividing the surface into a large number of 
oblong or lozenge shaped fields. They are mostly 
found in the flexures of the joints. 

The pores are minute depressions, representing the 
openings of the glands and hair follicles which are situ- 
ated in the skin. 

Grossly speaking, the skin consists of the following 
three marked layers : 

First, the epidermis or outer layer of the skin ; 

Second, the derma, cutis, corium, true skin or deep 
layer ; 

Third, the subcutaneous tissue. 

Blood vessels and lymphatics are situated in the 
derma or true skin, or subcutaneous tissue. 

Nerves are situated in all layers, except the outer- 
most layer of the epidermis. 

The appendages of the skin are four in number, viz. : 
sweat glands, sebaceous or oil glands, hair and nails. 



THE EPIDERMIS 

The epidermis, the most external of the layers of the 
skin, is conveniently divided into four layers ; the outer- 
most layer, or stratum corneum, known as the horny 
layer ; below this an ill-defined, shining layer, or stratum 
lucidum ; and beneath this the granular layer, or stratum 
granulosum; and finally the innermost layer, or mucous 
layer. 

Stratum Corneum. 

The stratum corneum, horny layer, or dead layer, is 
the outermost external portion of the epidermis. 
Scales are continually thrown off by this layer. 

Stratum Lucidum. 

This layer is immediately below the horny layer, is 
of a glistening appearance, narrow and compact. 

Stratum Granulosum. 

This layer lies below the stratum lucidum. Nothing 
of importance can be said about it. 

Stratum Mucosum. 

This layer is the deepest layer of the epidermis, and 
is of importance. In the lower portion of this layer 
we find the cells containing the coloring matter, 
known as pigment, which gives the skin a brownish 
appearance. In the Caucasian race these are best ob- 
served in the regions of the nipples of the breast, 
the scrotum, the anus and the external female gen- 
ital organs. 

In the colored races we find the pigment in greater 
amount. Nerves are found running through this 
layer to the outer layers of the epidermis. 

Corium. 

The corium, derma, or true skin, is composed of 
dense interlacing bundles of fibrous connective tissue. 



It contains blood vessels, nerves, lymphatics, hairs, 
glands, fat cells, and a varying amount of smooth 
muscles. 

Subcutaneous Tissue. 

This layer lies beneath the corium and contains the 
sweat glands, the deeper lying hair follicles, trunks 
of blood and lymph-vessels, and nerves. 



^ BLOOD VESSELS 

Both the corium and the subcutaneous tissue are 
liberally supplied with blood. The epidermis has no 
blood supply, and that is the reason why a superficial 
cut into the skin does not bleed. This is more perceiv- 
able on the palms of the hands and on the soles of the 
feet, because the horny layer of the epidermis is the 
thickest at those places. Blood vessels are divided into 
two classes, arteries and veins. The arteries carry the 
blood from the heart through the whole body, and the 
veins return it. The arteries lie deep, whereas the 
veins lie superficial, and may readily be seen in the skin. 
Arteries carry fresh blood, that is, blood well supplied 
with oxygen, and of a bright-red color, whereas veins 
contain blood minus oxygen, and of a dark-red hue. In 
former years when cupping and blood letting was prac- 
ticed to a great extent, the belief was, that the dark 
blood, drawn from the skin by the cups, or the blood 
taken direct from the veins, was bad blood, and it was 
supposed that it was a good thing for the patient that 
such blood was removed. This, however, is not true, as 
the venous or darker blood is conducted through the 
veins to the heart, from there to the lungs, where it is 
charged Vv^ith a new supply of oxygen, which brightens 
the color from a dark-red to a bright-red hue, and des- 



ignated as arterial blood, and carried from the lungs to 
the heart and from there is distributed throughout the 
body. The venous blood by this change has lost 
all of its formerly supposed unhealthy appearance. 



NERVES 

Nerves are distributed throuhout the body, including 
the various glands, muscles, and other structures of the 
skin. Nen'es have the property of transmitting im- 
pulses, and control all organs of the body. The main 
operating center of the nerves is the brain. A nerve 
may be compared with a wire that transmits an electric 
current from a battery to a motor, which it sets in mo- 
tion. All organs of the body are set in motion by a 
current transmitted to them through the nerves. Nerves 
also carry impulses of sensation from various parts of 
the body to the brain or nerve centers. If a nerve is 
cut, the parts formerly controlled by it will lose all 
sensation and motor power, and will be designated as 
being paralyzed. 



SWEAT GLANDS 

The sweat, or sudoriparous glands, or sweat coils, 
are small, globular, reddish-yellow bodies, situated in the 
superficial portion of the subcutaneous tissue, or the 
deep part of the true skin. From each gland a duct or 
canal passes through the various parts of the skin, 
which conducts the sweat to the surface. The sweating, 
while more or less constant, ordinarily evaporates as 
rapidly as it is produced, so that its presence is not per- 
ceived. If for any reason, however, the function of the 
glands are increased, as the result of exercise, work, 
Of heat, the secretion is formed much more rapidly, and 



will be seen on the surface of the skin in the form of 
drops. The palms, soles, face, neck, and armpits, are 
favored places for increased sweating. The average 
amount normally excreted by an adult in twenty-four 
hours is between two and three pints. The amount 
can, however, be increased or diminished, depending on 
various conditions and circumstances, such as heat, cold, 
clothing, drugs, nervous system, etc. 



SEBACEOUS GLANDS 

The sebaceous glands, also known as oil glands, are 
situated in the true skin, formed from the outer root 
sheath of the hair, and usually in close relation to the 
hair. In the palms and soles there are no sebaceous 
glands. Each gland has a canal, through which the oily 
substance or sebum is conveyed to the hair, and thence 
to the surface of the skin. In several diseases of the 
skin these canals are obstructed by the hardening of 
the sebum. The hardened plugs are generally known as 
blackheads. When sebaceous glands become very ac- 
tive, the result will be a greasy, shining skin. The se- 
bum acts as a lubricant to the hair, and also keeps the 
skin soft and pliable. On the scalp, if the secretion is 
allowed to collect indefinitely, the parts being washed 
only at long intervals, and only carelessly brushed and 
combed, it tends to collect in minute, thin, greasy scales, 
producing a condition called dandruff. 



THE HAIR 

Hair are horny, rounded formations, arising from 
the skin. Each hair is divided into two parts : the root, 
having its seat in the true skin, is implanted in a pouch 
or follicle, and a shaft, which projects free above the 



skin. The lower part of the hair or root is thicker than 
the shaft, and ends in a bulb, known as the hair bulb. 
A hair consists of a transparent membrane which is 
outermost, named cuticle, and a central or medullary 
portion, or marrow. The color of the hair is due to 
the presence of pigment granules, and diffuse pigment. 
Gray and light colored hair are without pigment. The 
hair follicle or hair pouch in which the root of the hair 
is imbedded, is of connective tissue structure, indirectly 
connected with a muscle, the arector pili muscle, the 
function of which is to make the hair stand up straight. 
A good example of the action of such muscles is seen 
in the dog, hog and various other animals, when in an 
angry mood. The hair follicles are supplied with ar- 
teries, veins and nerves. The arteries and veins are the 
nourishing factors of the hair, while the nerves furnish 
control. Hair are found in all parts of the body sur- 
face, except the palms, soles, some parts on the upper 
surface of the fingers and toes, lips and penis. Hair 
may be divided into three classes: first, fine, soft or 
downy hairs, usually seen upon the face, trunk and 
limbs ; second, short, strong hairs, such as the eyebrows, 
eyelashes, also those in the nose and external ears ; third, 
long hairs, as those of the scalp, beard, armpits and 
genital regions. 



NAILS 

Nails are horny, transparent structures, implanted in 
the skin of the dorsal surfaces of the ends of the fingers 
and toes. A nail takes the place of the horny layer of 
the epidermis to which it responds, but differs from it 
in being harder. 

10 



THE FUNCTIONS OF THE SKIN 

The functions of the skin are manifold, and of great 
importance. First, the skin furnishes protection for the 
deeper tissues, muscles, nerves and blood-vessels, from 
external injuries, by its elasticity and flexibility. The 
horny layer in being harder than the other layers of the 
skin, is well adapted for protection from burns, caustics 
and other injuries; second, the skin is the organ of the 
sense of touch. We recognize by this, shapes, sizes and 
other properties of various subjects, heat, cold and in- 
juries; third, absorption. Various substances may be 
taken up by the skin and carried into the general cir- 
culation. Some drugs are absorbed more readily than 
others, and this fact should be kept in mind when ap- 
plying poisonous remedies or disinfectants to a large 
surface of the skin. Watery vapors, oxygen and other 
gases are absorbed freely; fourth, secretion is a very 
important function of the skin. The sebaceous and 
sweat glands perform this function; fifth, the tempera- 
ture of the body is regulated by the skin, which is of 
great importance. This regulation takes place by radia- 
tion, evaporation and conduction. The horny layer of 
the skin is a bad conductor of heat, and by this limits 
too great a loss of heat from the superficial blood 
vessels. The epidermis also produces a certain amount 
of pressure upon the blood vessels, preventing their over- 
filling with blood, and the loss of fluid and heat. In 
hot weather, or if the skin is exposed to heat, the blood 
vessels relax and fill up to their greatest capacity, and 
the result will be sweating. The heat is carried off by 
the water. If the skin is exposed to cold, the blood ves- 
sels shrink, diminishing the amiount of blood supply of 
the skin, v.^hich becomes dry, and the giving off of heat 
is greatly lessened. 



11 



ABNORMAL CONDITIONS OF THE SKIN 
BY WHICH DISEASES ARE RECOGNIZED 

It is necessary for the reader to be acquainted with 
the various lesions of the skin, to enable him to recog- 
nize more readily some of the more important diseases 
with which he may come in contact while shaving, or 
cutting hair, in order to protect himself as well as his 
patrons from contagious diseases. 

MACULES.— Synonyms— Maculae ; Spots ; Ger., Flecke. 
Macules are discolorations of various tints, shapes 
and sizes, and level with the skin. Examples of 
macules are found in the common freckles, which are 
the result of an excessive amount of pigment in the 
skin, and in vitiligo where there is a loss of pigment, 
which gives the spots a clear white appearance. The 
discolorations of bruises also come under the head 
of macules. 

PAPULES.— Synonyms — Papulae ; Pimples ; Ger., 
Knotchen. 

Papules are elevations of the skin from the size of a 
pin's point to a split pea, and not containing fluid. 
They may occur on any part of the body. The face 
is most frequently the site of papules. 

NODULES. — Synonyms — Nodulae; Ger., Knoten. 

Nodules are elevations of the skin ranging from a 
split pea to a hazelnut in size. 

TUMORS. — Synonyms — Tomores; Ger., Knollen; Ge- 
schwulste. 

Tumors are from a pea upwards in size. They may 
be soft or hard, and of different constitution, growth, 
character and termination. They may undergo reac- 
tion, and form ulcers. The class of tumors includes 

12 



diseases as, carbuncles, cancers, leprosy, fatty tumors, 
wens, and a number of others, of benign or malig- 
nant nature. 

VESICLES. — Synonyms — Vesiculae; Ger., Blaschen. 
Vesicles are elevations of the skin from a pin's point 
to a small pea in size, and containing fluid. They 
may be designated as little blisters. 

BLEBS. — Synonyms — Bullae; Blisters; Ger., Blasen. 
Blebs are elevations of the skin larger than a pea 
and containing fluid. The distinction from vesicles 
lies only in the size. 

PUSTULES.— Synonyms— Pustulae ; Ger., Pusteln. 
Pustules, as the name implies, contain pus, and are 
of various sizes and shapes. Many skin diseases are 
characterized by pustules. If pustules are found up- 
on the face, the barber should be on the look-out, 
and disinfect his shaving instruments thoroughly after 
shaving, 

SCALES. — Synonyms — Squamae; Ger., Schuppen. 
Scales are exfoliations of a dry nature, from the 
horny layer of the epidermis. They may be the re- 
sult of a previously existing inflammation, disease, or 
due to an abnormal dryness of the skin. They are 
found in scarlet fever, eczema, psoriasis, etc. Re- 
member dandruff, and you will not forget what scales 
look like. 

CRUSTS. — Synonyms — Crustae; Scabs; Ger., Krusten, 
Crusts are dried masses of exudation. They may 
consist of blood, serum, pus, fat, and scales of dried 
skin. The barber should at all times be careful when 
crusts are seen on the face or scalp, because they 
often contain germs of a contagious nature. Some 
of the contagious diseases that have crusts include 

13 



impetigo, contagiosa, favus, and often syphilis, and a 
number of otliers. 

ULCERS. — Synonym — Ulcera ; Ger., Gescliwiire. 

Ulcers are due to losses of substance of the skin, 
caused by disease. They may be of contagious or 
non-contagious origin. 

SCARS. — Synonyms — Cicatrices; Ger., Narben. 

Scars are connective tissue new formations, replac- 
ing losses of substance, caused by injur}^ partial or 
whole destruction of the true skin. A cut with the 
razor into the true skin will produce a scar, and the 
deeper the cut the more permanent will be the scar. 



14 



INTRODUCTION 

Everyone knows that the barber has his ups and 
downs, the same as those of other trades and profes- 
sions, and that if he intends to do justice to himself and 
patron, he must acquaint himself first: with the best 
method of shaving and cutting hair. Second, he should 
have a fair knowledge of the appearance of all the con- 
tagious diseases with which he may come in contact. 
Third, he must know the value of antiseptics, which to 
use, and how to use them, in order to protect himself 
and his patrons from spreading diseases. The barber 
comes in contact with various diseases of the skin, some 
highly contagious, and others not. It is not easy for an 
inexperienced eye to differentiate a contagious from a 
non-contagious disease. It is easier to prevent the 
spread of diseases than it is to cure them. The medical 
profession makes a distinction between contagious and 
infectious diseases, but for convenience, the reader may 
do well to consider these two words as meaning the 
same. We will now study only those diseases which 
are of special interest to the barber, either, because they 
are contagious, or have other scientific or diagnostic 
value. Syphilis will be explained thoroughly, so as to 
produce a lasting im^pression upon the minds of the bar- 
bers, and at the same time remind them more strongly 
of the duties towards their patrons. 



15 



SYPHILIS 

Synonyms.— Lues Venera ; Pox ; Bad Disorder ; French, 

Verole ; Italian, Sifilide ; Ger., Lustseuche, Krankheit 

der Franzosen; Swedish, Radezyge. 

Syphilis is a chronic, specific, contagious disease, both 
acquired and transmissible by inheritance, and may pro- 
duce lesions in any part of the body. The name by 
which the disease is most often recognized in all lan- 
guages was first employed by Hieronymus Fracastorius, 
who, in the year 1521, composed a poem in which a 
herdsman, named Syphilus, was afflicted with some 
mysterious malady by the god Apollo, for giving divine 
honors to the king. The derivation of the word taken 
from the Greek, was evidently intended by the author to 
suggest, in no reproachful sense, that the hero of his 
verses was a simple companion of swine. 

Syphilis is most often contracted by sexual inter- 
course, but may also enter the system by the lips and 
miOuth, through the use of drinking cups and glasses, 
smoking pipes, by blowing various musical or other in- 
struments, tin horns that are so common around elec- 
tion time, lung testers, that in former years were so fre- 
quently seen in saloons and other public places, by 
kissing, etc. Wet nurses, while nursing syphilitic chil- 
dren, and vice-versa, is another source by which the 
disease may be carried from one person to another. 
Syphilitic virus may enter the system by the skin through 
an abrasion, cut, prick, etc. No part of the skin or 
mucous membrane is exempt from being inoculated. 

Syphilis is divided into three stages, viz. : primary, 
secondary and tertiary stage. 

Prim.ary Stage. 

The initial or first lesion of syphilis is the chancre. 
It marks the place where inoculation has occurred, and 
where the virus is introduced into the system. The 

16 



chancre makes its appearance from 10 to 30 days after 
exposure, and manifests itself most often as a papule, 
which generally grows larger and harder as time goes 
on, due to the process of a deep-seated inflammation. 
The time between the primary lesion and the secondary 
eruption is generally considered from 30 to 90 days. 
Second Stage. 

The glands nearest to the point of inoculation be- 
come enlarged, and somewhat painful to the touch. The 
patient will complain of other constitutional symptoms, 
such as fever, headaches, and pain in the joints. Later 
an eruption will appear on the skin, which may be uni- 
versal over the whole, or parts of the body surface. 
The eruption may appear in the form of macules, pap- 
ules, pustules, or ulcers. At this time the patient may 
also complain of sore throat, and of sores in the mouth 
and nose, and on the tongue. The eyes often become 
inflamed. While these symptoms go on the hair fall 
out, which loss is only temporary. There may be a 
general thinning of the hair, or they may come out in 
some part more than in others, forming almost nearly 
bald spots. On the scalp this thinning of hair is most 
pronounced, but it will also be noticed in the eyebrows 
and beard. The barber should be on guard when such 
a condition presents itself to him, but should at the 
same time not forget that there are other diseases in 
which the hair fall out, and not look upon every person 
as being syphilitic in whom such a condition exists. 
Third Stage. 

Between the second and third stage of syphilis no 
exact dividing line can be drawn, since the secondary and 
tertiary symptoms often merge into each other, and 
while some symptoms which usually occur late in the 
disease are occasionally among the early manifestations, 
and some secondary symptoms recur at a late period. 

17 



The third stage of syphilis is ascribed to the period in 
which there appear deep seated swellings called gummata, 
which often break down, and if not treated, form ulcers. 
These ulcers terminate in scars, which sometimes will 
cause unsightly, and permanent disfigurations. Ulcera- 
tions may occur on any part of the body. The skin as 
well as the internal organs may be affected. Paralysis, 
either of small or large areas, is not uncommon. In 
some syphilitics the spinal cord may become affected by 
the disease, which causes a loss of control of the limbs, 
mostly the lower. When the brain is the seat of a 
gumma, one-half of the whole body becomes paralyzed, 
and the patient will have all the symptoms of an ap- 
oplectic stroke, and may die during such a period. In- 
sanity is sometimes a sequel of syphilis. Ulcerations of 
the bones, slight or severe, is another condition some- 
times met with in the later stages of syphilis. 

The medical profession generally considers that a 
course of treatment must extend over a period of from 
two to three years to effect a cure. 



WARNING TO THE BARBER 

You have heard that syphilis is a contagious disease ; 
that it is chronic in character; that at times it causes 
destruction of tissue to such an extent that the area in- 
volved in regaining its former appearance is out of the 
question; that such destruction of tissue produces un- 
sightly scars, which sometimes cause great disfigura- 
tion, especially if on exposed parts of the body; that 
such disfigurations are a detriment to the person afflicted, 
in business transactions, or socially. You have also read 
that syphilis sometimes produces grave nerve and brain 
symptoms, insanity, and early death, which facts can- 
not be im.pressed too much on the barber's mind. After 



reading and hearing so much about that dreaded disease, 
syphilis, the question arises : can a barber knowingly, or 
through his ignorance or carelessness, expose himself or 
his patrons to the infection of such a disease, and yet 
clear his conscience by saying? "I did not know that the 
man had syphilis whom I shaved." A very flimsy ex- 
cuse indeed. If a person afflicted with syphilis presents 
himself to the barber to be shaved or have his hair cut, 
the barber must be very careful not to prick or cut 
himself, for fear of contracting the disease. He must 
never strop the razor he is using on such a person with- 
out having it previously well disinfected. If the razor 
is not disinfected, the strop will be infected, and this 
careless procedure will be dangerous to others. 



19 



RINGWORM 

SynonjTns. — Tinea tricophytina ; Ger., Scherende Flechte. 
Ringworm is a contagious disease, and may occur on 
the scalp, face or body. When on the scalp it is called 
tinea tonsurans, when on the face, tinea barbae, and 
when on the body the name tinea circinata is applied to 
it. The disease is caused by the tricophyton tonsurans 
fungus, which is a vegetable parasite. The disease is 
not only a disease of man, but it also frequent in lower 
animals. Cats, dogs, rabbits, cows, horses, and other ani- 
mals are liable to it, and have transmitted it to man, 
and vice-versa. It may also be conveyed through the 
medium of wearing apparel, towels, toilet articles, etc. 
Schools, orphan asylums, foundling homes, barber shops, 
hair dressing and beauty parlors and laundries are com- 
mon sources. 

RINGWORM OF THE SCALP 

This disease is mostly found in children. It is trans- 
mitted from one child to another, or from lower animals 
to child, and vice-versa. It begins as a red pimple 
around a hair, which spreads and becomes a scaly patch 
of a pale grayish-red color, covered with fine, white 
scales. This patch widens out, and as the fungi get 
down into the hair pouches, the hair will show signs of 
ill nutrition, and have the appearance of being bitten off, 
are lustreless, and stand in all directions. If an attempt 
is made to pull them out they often break off below the 
surface of the skin. Some patches while spreading 
clear up in the center, others do not. In some cases, 
patches may take on a more inflammatory nature, and 
have a different appearance than above described. When 
such a condition exists, the inflamed patch is somewhat 
raised, has a more or less boggy appearance, and around 

20 



the hairs are small pustules. Thick crusts form, and if 
pressure be made on them, a thick, muco-purulant secre- 
tion can readily be ejected. 

Ringworm of the scalp is at times very easily cured, 
but in neglected cases it may persist indefinitely. 



RINGWORM OF THE BEARDED REGION 

Synonyms. — Tinea sycosis; tinea barbae; barber's itch; 

Ger., Parasitische Bartfinne. 

Ringworm of the bearded region is not met with as 
frequently as it is on the scalp or body surface. Two 
distinct types are known. One is superficial, while the 
other is deep seated and presents a lumpy appearance. 
The superficial as well as the deep seated variety be- 
gins as a slightly scaly, reddish, rounded patch, which 
has a tendency to spread. The superficial type goes on 
spreading in the same manner as it started, while the 
deep seated, after some time, extends down into the 
deeper layers of the skin, and produces more inflamma- 
tion. In the superficial variety the hairs and follicles 
are affected, and the hair can be easily extracted, and 
others drop out spontaneously. The hair will again 
grow in, after the disease has subsided. 



RINGWORM OF THE GENERAL SURFACE 

Ringworm on the general surface or tinea circinata 
may occur at any age, but children and young adults are 
more prone to it than old persons. It begins as a small 
pale-red , slightly raised scaly spot, the border of which 
is sharply cut. A spot continues to spread, clearing 
up in the center and forming a ring. Sometimes these 
spots do not clear up in the center, and yet continue to 
spread. Ringworm on the general surface is due to the 

21 



same fungus as is ringworm of the scalp or bearded 
region, and is contracted in the same manner. Most 
cases of ringworm, if treated early, respond readily to 
treatment. 

Ringworm is frequently contracted in unclean, un- 
sanitary barber shops, through the medium of towels and 
aprons, which are supposed to serve too many patrons 
before they are discarded, through brushes and combs, 
razors, tweezers, etc., that are seldom or never sterilized, 
and last, but not least, through the barber's hands, when 
only occasionally washed, and probably never disin- 
fected. 



22 



IMPETIGO CONTAGIOSA 

Impetigo contagiosa is an acute, highly contagious, 
inflammatory disease of the skin, characterized by the 
formation of discreet, superficial, flattened, rounded oval 
vesicles or blebs, and drying to thin yellowish crusts. 
In most cases the vesicles or blebs contain serum at the 
beginning, but occasionally their contents are of a mix- 
ture of serum and pus. If such a vesicle or bleb is 
broken, or the skin removed, a moist, red, raw looking 
surface is exposed. In children the disease is mostly 
seen to begin around the mouth and nose, and from 
there spreads to various other parts of the body sur- 
face. The disease is generally carried from one child 
to another, by the hands, slate and lead pencils, vari- 
ous musical instruments that are played by the mouth, 
toys, and other things that children are in the habit of 
handling much. At certain times of the year, and in 
densely populated districts, the disease often becomes 
epidemic. Adults may contract the disease in the same 
manner as do children, but in the main, the source of 
contagion can be traced to the barber shop. This is 
the disease that is generally known as barber's itch, and 
is very frequent. The name barber's itch, although 
wrongly applied to this disease by the barbers, the laity, 
and by some physicians, is, as stated above, a contagious 
disease, more so than is ringworm, but is caused by pus 
inocculation, whereas ringworm is due to a parasite. In 
impetigo there may be itching, either mild or severe. 
The patient often complains of a burning sensation. 
Fresh lesions appear from day to day, and leaving red 
spots after the vesicles or blebs have dried up and the 
crusts fallen off. Impetigo contagiosa is most often 
seen on the face, but may also occur on the scalp, neck, 
hands or body. If seen early, the disease responds read- 
ily to proper treatm.ent, which will save the patient from 

23 



discontinuing his work, and the annoyance of being 
stared at by everyone. Persons afflicted with this dis- 
ease should not be shaved by the barber, unless the 
necessary precautions are taken. If the rules, how to 
disinfect the hands and instruments are studied and 
followed to the letter, there will be little danger of trans- 
mitting the disease from one person to another. 



24 



FAVUS 

Synonyms. — Tinea favosa; crusted ringworm; Ger., 

Erbgrind. 

Favus is a contagious, parasitic disease of the skin, 
caused by a vegetable parasite. The disease appears in 
yellow cup-shaped crusts, from a pin's head to a pea 
in size. At the beginning each crust is pierced by a 
hair. The disease spreads very slowly, and it may take 
months before the appearance of the lesions have 
changed much. Later the crusts unite and form mortar- 
like masses. The hair within the diseased area have 
loosened, become brittle, have lost their lustre, break off, 
and many split longitudinally. The most favorable site 
for favus is the scalp, but it may attack any part of the 
body surface. Sometimes the mucous membrane is 
affected. Favus on the scalp has a more or less char- 
acteristic odor, which reminds one of musty straw, and 
the urine of mice. The young are more liable to contract 
the disease than do adults. Although favus is seen in 
adults, it generally has existed for a number of years, 
and had its beginning while the patient was comparative- 
ly young. Favus is not as highly contagious as is ring- 
worm. It is conveyed from one person to another, or 
from animals, such as dogs, cats, rabbits, cattle or 
horses, to man. If the disease occurs on the body, in 
most cases the source of contagion can be traced to 
the scalp of the same person. 



25 



ERYSIPELAS 

Synonyms. — The rose; St. Anthony's fire; Ger., Roth- 
lauf; Hautrose; Wnndrose. 

Erysipelas is a specific inflammatory disease of the 
skin with constitutional disturbances, such as chills, 
fever, nausea and sometimes vomiting. The face, and 
particularly the regions around the nose, are the most 
common seats of origin. At the beginning of the disease 
there is a slight redness and swelling, which, while the 
disease spreads, becomes more and more pronounced. 
The color will change to a dark red, and the swelling 
at times is so great as to close both eyes. The border 
of the redness is sharply defined, and it can be readily 
seen how far the disease has advanced. The disease 
often spreads over the whole face and scalp. In some 
cases blisters form. Delirium may be present when fever 
is very high. When the disease subsides, the swelling 
will gradually disappear, and a slight shedding of the 
horny layer of the skin is noticed. In some cases the 
hair fall out in great quantities, but will subsequently 
fill in to the original amount. 

Erysipelas may occur at any age, but it is more fre- 
quently observed between the ages of twenty and fifty. 
The cause of erysipelas can often be traced to an injury, 
such as cuts, pricks, or cracks in the skin, bruises, and 
in fact anything that injures the skin and produces an 
opening into w^hich the germ of the disease can readily 
enter. As a rule, persons with erysipelas do not present 
themselves at barber shops, but the barber may be called 
to their homes to shave them. It is advisable in a good 
natured manner to refuse to shave such persons. 



26 



LUPUS VULGARIS 

Synonyms. — Lupus; Ger., Fressende Flechte. 

The word lupus translated means, a wolf. Lupus is 
a deep seated inflammation in the skin, producing pap- 
ules, nodules, and patches, caused by the tubercle ba- 
cillus, chronic in course, terminating in ulceration and 
scarring. The disease is most often seen on the face, 
and especially on the nose, or its immediate surround- 
ings, but may occur on any part of the body surface. It 
generally makes its appearance in papules or nodules 
of a brownish-red or yellowish color, which unite and 
form a patch. More papules form, the patch enlarges, 
the old papules or nodules break down and form ulcers, 
which terminate in scarring. This process may go on 
for years before an area of one to two inches across is 
involved. The appearance of the border and the old 
scarred patch is not unlike that of certain forms of 
syphilitic lesions, but if the color, the arrangement and 
hue of the papules, and the slowness of growth are taken 
into consideration, it will be comparatively easy to make 
a correct diagnosis. Ringworm is sometimes mistaken 
for lupus. Lupus leaves scars, ringworm never. The 
border of lupus consists of papules, whereas ringworm 
has none. Ringworm spreads rapidly, lupus slowly. 
The barber should disinfect his hands and instrument 
well, after shaving a person affected with lupus, and 
should take all necessary precautions during the time of 
shaving. 



27 



LUPUS ERYTHEMATOSUS 

Lupus erythematosus is an infiammatory, chronic 
disease of the skin, appearing in pinkish or dark-red 
patches, covered with grayish, or yellowish scales, and 
most commonly attacking the face. The most favored 
sites for this affection are the nose and cheeks, ears and 
scalp. The patches are somewhat elevated, and this is 
more perceptible at the border line. The scales cover- 
ing these patches are of a grayish, or yellowish-gray, 
scant, or in abundance. There may be one or more 
patches, and from time to time others may appear. They 
spread, and often two unite and form one. The bor- 
der of a patch, and the abruptness by which it terminates, 
produces a striking contrast from the healthy skin sur- 
rounding it. Lupus erythematosus is a disease most 
common between the ages of 16 and 40, but is often 
seen later than 40, and sometimes before 16. There is 
at present no absolute certainty as to the cause of this 
disease. Some authors claim that it is caused by the 
baccillus of tuberculosis, others hold different views. It 
will be well for the barber to take the same precautions 
as he would with lupus vulgaris. 



28 



ALOPECIA 

Synonyms. — Baldness; Ger., Kahlheit. 

The name alopecia is taken from the Greek, meaning 
a fox. The name was applied to this disease because 
the fox is prone to baldness. The name alopecia is ap- 
plied to any kind of baldness, no matter what caused it. 
It may be due to a constitutional disease, such as syphilis, 
typhoid fever, erysipelas, old age, disease or injury to 
nerves, parasitic skin diseases, any of which may cause 
baldness. 



ALOPECIA AREATA 

Alopecia Areata is an affliction most often located on 
the scalp, but may attack any hairy regions on the body. 
It appears in bald, rounded patches, which at first small 
and not noticeable to the patient, become larger, the hair 
fall out, and leave a bright, bald, shining surface. 
This process may go on until the larger part of the 
scalp is affected. In exceptional cases the whole scalp 
may become bald. The hairs at the border of a patch 
are loose, and can be easily extracted. The skin in and 
around a patch is not inflamed, nor does it scale. Alo- 
pecia areata is caused by a parasite, or may be of neu- 
rotic origin. The disease occurs most frequently in per- 
sons between the ages of 10 and 30, but may also be 
found in children younger than 10, and adults older than 
30 years of age. Most all cases of this affection take 
a chronic course. The patches may become covered with 
a new growth of hair, but this is often of short dura- 
tion, and the bald area may spread to a larger size than 
before. While some cases of alopecia areata are con- 
tagious and others not, the barber is advised to treat all 
his patrons afflicted with this disease as if it were of a 
contagious character, and to take the necessary precau- 
tions. 

29 



SEBORRHOEA 

Synonyms.— Stearrhea ; Ger., Schmeerfluss ; Gneis. 

Seborrhoea is a disease of the fat-producing glands 
of the skin, secreting an abnormal amount of oily sub- 
stance, or an accumulation of scales or crusts on the 
skin surface. Two varieties of this disease are known, 
and are named seborrhoea oleosa, and seborrhoea sica. 
The former is practically only an excessive oiliness of 
the skin, the latter is the same, only with an accumula- 
tion of scales from the epidermis in addition. These 
scales are matted together by the oily secretions, and 
form grayish, dirty, and greasy looking crusts. The 
disease is most often seen on the scalp and face, and 
frequently at the junction of the two, and is not of an in- 
flammatory nature. It is most frequently between the 
ages of 15 and 30, but may occur in children younger 
than 15 years of age. In the new born it is a common 
affection, and is generally known by the name, milk 
crusts. 

Some authors claim seborrhoea contagious, but this 
is not as yet an established fact, only an advanced theor>'. 



30 



ACNE VULGARIS 

Synonyms.— Acne ; Ger., Akne; Finnen. 

Acne is an inflammatory disease of the sebaceous 
glands, most often of a chronic nature, occurring on the 
face, shoulders and upper parts of the trunk, and ap- 
pearing in papules, tubercles and pustules. The disease 
is common between the ages of 13 and 30. Although 
the disease may appear on almost any part of the body, 
yet the face is the most common site. Papules are al- 
ways present, but they are intermingled with pustules, 
and often nodules. Comedones (blackheads) are com- 
mon in acne vulgaris, which are caused by the blocking 
up of the sebaceous ducts by dried sebaceous secretion. 
The dark or blackheads on these comedones are due to 
dust and dirt. Blackheads are most often found in the 
center of acne papules and pustules, which, when pus 
is discharged, often leave a stained, pitted scar. These 
stains will gradually disappear, but the scars will not. 
Acne vulgaris is not contagious, is met with in barber 
shops probably more often than any other skin disease, 
and is very easily recognized. 



31 



ACNE ROSACEA 

Synonyms. — Rosacea; Ger., Kupferrose; Kupferfinne. 

Acne rosacea is a chronic disease of the face, which 
most often makes its appearance on the nose and its 
immediate surroundings. It is also seen on the forehead 
and chin, and broadly speaking, is a disease that attacks 
the middle third of the face. The superficial blood 
vessels become dilated, giving the area involved a fiery 
appearance. Papules are present, which often terminate 
in pustules. From time to time new papules, sometimes 
nodules spring up, and the disease gradually spreads, in- 
volving a greater area. In some of the long standing 
cases the disease sometimes changes its color from that 
of bright-red to a blueish hue. It is often stated that the 
disease is caused by excessive indulgence in alcoholic 
drinks, but this is a wrong impression, and should be 
discarded. The disease may be aggravated by dyspepsia, 
too much drinking of coffee and beverages containing 
alcohol, but sometimes the cause is obscure. There are 
some cases in whom the disease has been brought on 
by the excessive use of alcoholics, but there are others 
that never drink alcohol in any form. Women are as* 
often affected as are men. 

No one should think a person a toper because he has 
acne rosacia, while he may be right in one case he may 
be wrong in a number of others. Acne rosacia is not 
contagious. 



32 



DANDRUFF 

Dandruff, also called dandriff, is an excessive ex- 
foliation from the horny layer of the epidermis, brought 
on either by natural dryness or by inflammation of the 
skin of the scalp, causing an accumulation of scales. 
These scales are of a white ,or dirty white, or grayish 
color, dry, or greasy to the touch. There are many 
diseases in which dandruff is a secondary condition. 
Seborrhoea, eczema, ringworm and psoriasis are ex- 
amples. To remove dandruff permanently the disease 
that causes it must be removed first. 



33 



ATROPHY OF THE HAIR 

Atrophy (a wasting or innutrition) of the hair is a 
term employed to cover various abnormal conditions of 
the hair, manifesting retrogressive changes. These 
changes may be caused by the invasion of parasites into 
the hair, or in the immediate surrounding of the hair 
roots, or any systematic disturbance that causes the nutri- 
tion of the hair to be lessened or entirely shut off. The 
hair become weakened and fragile. Such conditions as 
stated are found in ringworm, erysipelas, typhoid fever, 
favus, and numerous other diseases. 



SUPERFLUOUS HAIR 

This condition may occur on various parts of the 
skin, but it is only of importance when on exposed sur- 
faces. The face is the most favored locality. The hair 
are generally grouped on the site of a mole. The treat- 
ment for such a condition is the electric needle. 



SPLIT HAIR 



This is a condition in which the hair are extremely 
fragile. There are several ways in which this condition 
is manifested. The hair may split at its free end, along 
the shaft, and even into the root. In some cases the hair 
break off when being combed or brushed. This may be 
barely noticeable, or it may be pronounced. IMen with 
long beards and with long scalp hair are more prone to 
it. The parts of the hair most often affected are the 
ends, but the shaft may also be split up for some dis- 
tance. There are exceptional cases where this splitting 
occurs along the shaft primarily. In some this splitting 

34 



is universal, while in others only the hair of cetrain 
areas are affected. The treatment consists in removing 
the cause, if this can be determined, by constitutional 
treatment. Locally the barber can aid towards effecting 
a cure by frequent shaving of the beard for some time. 
If the skin is very dry at the affected places, shampoo- 
ing, and the application of some oily substance thereafter 
will be of benefit. 



RARE DISEASES OF THE HAIR 

Some of the rare diseases of the hair that are of little 
importance to the barber need only mentioning. The 
beaded heir, in which the hairs contain one, to numer- 
ous constrictions along their shafts, which gives them 
the appearance of a number of spindle shaped beads, 
placed on a string. The nodose hair, giving the hair 
the appearance of lice nits being stuck on. In this con- 
dition the hairs are very brittle and easily break off at 
one of the nodules. Some of these diseases seem to be 
of parasitic origin, but this fact has not as yet been 
established. 



INGROWN HAIR 



This condition is caused by too close shaving. The 
skin being somewhat elastic, is drawn and stretched by 
the hand of the barber to make shaving easier; this 
presses the hair more to the surface, and is, while being 
shaved off, in fact cut below the surface when the skin 
has receded to its normal position. Another contribu- 
tary cause is the inflammation produced by shaving. 

35 



This inflammation, although considered very moderate, 
is sufficient to cause a swelling of the skin, which par- 
tially closes the orifices of the hair follicles over the hair 
stumps that have been cut off so short. Hair stumps 
after shaving present a square, or somewhat slant top 
surface, and while these stumps are growing, sometimes 
cannot force themselves through the swollen canal ori- 
fices, which act as a roof over them, and naturally, will 
turn and coil up. If this process goes on for some 
time, an inflamed nodule will make its appearance, which 
later terminates in an abcess. Opening of this abcess 
and the removal of the hair is the only treatment. 



HAIR SINGEING 



The method of treating the hair after being cut by 
singeing, with the idea of sealing up the ends to pre- 
vent the escape of nutrition that should be saved, is a 
wrong one. Singeing has absolutely no value whatever 
as a stimulant to make the hair grow, and should rather 
be considered as a detriment to them. By singeing, the 
hair stumps are sealed up, which in itself is a worthless 
procedure, but they are at the same time damaged by 
the heat, to about an inch, or even more, in addition. 
From a pecuniary standpoint only is singeing of value, 
otherwise this practice should be condemned. 



THE BARBER HIMSELF 

We all must admit that every person has his faults, 
the barber not excepted. To be faulty is a disgrace in 
the eyes of the general public. Each person sees the 

36 



sliver in his neighbor's eye, but will he see the beam in 
his own? The bad qualities a person may have are 
spoken of often, whereas the good seldom. When a 
patron has contracted a disease in a barber shop the 
people in the whole district are informed about it, but 
when good, clean treatment is accorded him it will not 
be interesting news for others. 

A barber should protect himself as well as his pat- 
rons from contagious diseases. It is not necessary to 
refuse to shave because a patron is afflicted with such a 
disease, if the necessary precautions are resorted to. It 
is criminal to be negligent in this direction. Most dis- 
eases contracted in barber shops are spread through 
the medium of the barber's hands, or his filthy instru- 
ments. 

When a barber himself is afflicted with a contagious 
disease it doubles his responsibility towards his patrons. 
What is he to do? He should wash, and disinfect his 
hands thoroughly before shaving; he should never place 
his fingers on the lips, or put them into the patient's 
mouth; he should be careful not to cut or scratch the 
skin while shaving, because an abrasion in the skin is 
the channel through which contagious disease germs are 
most often transmitted. A styptic should be applied to 
every cut or scratch immediately after they appear. The 
barber should not wipe his nose nor use his handker- 
chief while shaving. A handkerchief is never aseptic 
while in use; he should not strop his razor on the 
palms of his hands, neither test its edge on his finger 
tips, finger nails, or his hair, unless he disinfects it 
thereafter. It would be criminal negligence for a barber 
to wet the alum or other styptic with the sputum of 
his mouth before using it; he should not place his face 
too close to that of his patron, so as to inhale his, or he 
your breath; he should never dress wounds or treat 



37 



other diseases of a contagious nature on his own or 
other persons, without a thorough disinfection of his 
hands thereafter ; he should never use water from finger- 
bowls for shaving. While on duty he should have his 
mind constantly on the dangers to which his patrons 
are exposed. 

The diseases to which a barber should give his full 
attention, if afflicted himself, are: syphilis, gonorrhoea 
(clap), soft chancres, veneral warts, and all other ven- 
eral diseases, impetigo contagiosa, ringworm, favus, lu- 
pus, consumption, and all other tubercular diseases. If 
the barber is affected with erysipelas he should stay 
away from his shop until entirely cured. 

The barber is advised not to speak to his patrons 
about the diseases of other patrons, and should not con- 
demn other barbers because some one has contracted a 
disease at one, or the other's shop. He should bear in 
mind that some day others may speak of him in the 
same manner. Would he like it? The barber often 
comes in contact with persons afflicted with diseases of 
of the skin, some of which being contagious, others not. 
At times it will be very difficult for him to differentiate 
a contagious from a non-contagious disease. In such 
cases what is he to do? In doubtful cases the barber 
should, after shaving, not only wash his hands and 
wipe his razor on a towel, but should wash both, and 
thoroughly disinfect them thereafter. This being done, 
there will be little danger of transmitting diseases from 
one person to another during the time of shaving or 
cutting hair. It should be the aim of all barbers to 
have all their instruments, cups, strops, combs, brushes 
and linens, as much as possible, in an aseptic condition. 
The barber's chair, and especially its head-rest, should 
not be greasy, sticky, and all smeared up. The barber 
must not have cuspidors standing around his shop, that 
the very sight of them would make any one gag on ac- 

38 



count of tobacco juice seen all over them, around them, 
and on the walls of his shop. He should wear clean 
clothes, and have the fixtures, furniture and floors of 
his shop clean, and kept clean at all times. The floors 
should be scrubbed often and at regular intervals. The 
greasy looking dirt rings which one so often sees 
around the door knobs and drawer handles of fixtures 
are certainly not considered by patrons as being or- 
namental. 



SEPSIS 

A toxic or putrefactive condition. 

ASEPSIS 

The meaning of asepsis is, to purify. The word is 
applied to a condition absolutely free from putrefaction. 
Aseptic hands, instruments, dressings, etc., are those 
free from putrefaction. 

ANTISEPTICS 

The word antiseptic is composed of two words, anti, 
against, and septic, putrefaction. They are agents that 
destroy putrefaction. 



DISINFECTION 

The destroying of disease germs by means of heat, 
chemic substances, fumigation, or fresh air. 



DISINFECTANTS 

Agents that destroy disease germs and noxious prop- 
erties of fermentation and putrefaction. 



STERILIZATION 

The condition of rendering sterile, infertile, or in- 
capable of reproducing. Sterile hands or instruments 
are those on which all germs are destroyed, so they 
cannot reproduce disease. 



40 



HOW TO MAKE ANTISEPTIC SOLUTIONS 

To make solutions of various strengths it will be 
necessary to know the drug or chemical that is to be 
employed, the strength in which it may be used, the 
amount necessary, and the quantity of the solution to 
be made. The quantity of the chemical must be in pro- 
portion to the quantity of the solution desired. To find 
the proportions necessary it will be well to study the 
following rules : 

60 grains, minims or drops, make one dram, or one teas- 
poonful. 

8 drams make one ounce, equal to 480 grains or 8 teas- 
poon fu Is. 

16 ounces make one pint, or one pound. 

2 pints make one quart. 

4 quarts make one gallon. 

The word grain applies to solid, whereas minims to 
liquid substances. 

The above table is not absolutely correct, because it 
takes less minims than it does grains, to make one 
ounce. For all practical purposes, grains and minims 
should be considered alike, as to their quantity. Cer- 
tain liquids vary in regard to the size of a drop. A drop 
of glycerine, syrup or liquid tar is larger and contains 
more than a drop of alcohol, water, or a drop of an 
aqueous solution. Liquids may be measured or weighed. 

Dry chemicals should never be measured by a tea- 
spoon, but should be weighed when making antiseptic 
solutions. 

A dram contains 60 minims, and is equal to a tea- 
spoonful. A distinction must be made between a tea- 
spoon and a dessertspoon. The latter holds twice the 
quantity as the former, and this should be kept in mind 
when making solutions. 



When we speak of a 1 to 1,000 solution we mean that 
one grain or one minim of a certain substance is mixed 
with or dissolved in 1,000 grains or minims (drops) of 
another substance. For example : If we intend to make 
an aqueous antiseptic solution of 1 to 1,000 we must 
have 1,000 minims of water, to which are added one 
grain or minim of some chemical. An ounce contains 
480 grains or minims (drops). 1,000 drops of water re- 
duced to ounces equals 2 1-12 ounces. A pint contains 
16 ounces, and if it requires one grain or minim to 
2 1-12 ounces, to make a 1 to 1,000 solution it will take 
so many grains or minims to the pint as 2 1-12 is con- 
tained in 16, which is 7 17-25, or nearly eight grains. 

Example : 
480 grains or m.inim.s make one ounce. 
16 ounces make one pint, reduced to minims, gives us 



2880 
48 



7,680 minims, or 7 68-100 equals 7 17-25 grains or min- 
ims to make a pint solution of 1 to 1,000 strength. 

When we speak of a one % solution, we mean that 
one grain or drop of a certain substance is mixed with 
or dissolved in 100 grains or drops of another substance. 

To make it clear, let us make a one ounce solution 
of 1 % strength. 

One ounce of water we say contains 480 drops, and 
if it requires one grain or drop in 100 drops to make a 
1 % solution, naturally it will require 4 80-100 grains 
or drops for a one ounce solution of that strength. 

To make a pint solution of 1 % strength, multiply 16 
by 4 80-100 equals 76 80-100 grains or drops that are 
required. 

42 



For a quart solution multiply 32 (because there are 
32 ounces in a quart) by 4 80-100, which will give us 
153 60-100 grains or drops required, etc. 

If the barber is not already familiar with the rules 
for making antiseptic solutions, it would be of interest 
to him to work out several examples, so as to memorize 
the proportions necessary to make the amount desired 
of the right strength. 



4.3 



DISINFECTION OF HANDS 

Soap and water should be used frequently for wash- 
ing the hands, and this will for ordinary purposes 
suffice. When the barber is dealing with contagious 
diseases he should, after shaving or cutting hair, scrub 
his hands thoroughly with a brush, in warm water and 
soap. (An antiseptic soap is preferred.) After wash- 
ing, rinse in clear water and dip them in an antiseptic 
solution, or pour the solution over them, rub well, so 
that the solution will reach into all the folds of the 
skin. For an antiseptic wash, alcohol pure, or in solu- 
tion, is the most practicable. Pure grain alcohol is the 
best, but denatured alcohol that can now be bought at a 
very much cheaper price than the former, may be used. 
The only objection to denatured alcohol is, that it is 
somewhat irritating to the skin. Alcohol may be used 
undiluted or in solution, varying from twenty-five to 
fifty per cent, strength. Carbolic acid in solution, from 
two to five per cent, in water, is a good disinfectant. 
If a small amount of alcohol is added to the solution 
it will increase its value as an antiseptic, giving it more 
penetrating power, and the acid will mix more readily 
with the water. The objection to carbolic acid is the 
long lasting odor and the numbness of the fingers and 
hands that is very often produced by its use. 

Formaldehyde (40% solution) may be used as a 
disinfectant for the hands, in the strength of from one 
in 100 to one in 1,000 of water. Lysol is another valu- 
able antiseptic, of which one to two per cent, in water 
is about the strength in w^hich it may be used. Lysol 
has a very disagreeable odor, which is lasting, and is 
therefore objectionable. Corrosive sublimate may be 
used in strength of 1 to 2,000, to 1 to 1,000 of water. 
A small amount of alcohol added will make it a power- 
ful antiseptic. The objections to the use of corrosive 

44 



sublimate are : the roughness of the skin of the hands 
produced by it; instruments are liable to be injured by 
its corrosive action on them, and the poisonous effect 
to the system, if frequently employed. There are many 
other chemicals that may be used as antiseptics, but 
they are inferior to the above mentioned, or are other- 
wise objectionable. Remember that the hands must al- 
v/ays be washed thoroughly before an antiseptic solu- 
tion is employed. 



45 



DISINFECTION OF FACE AND SCALP 

Soap and warm water should always be employed to 
remove all grease, dried particles of skin, blood, serum, 
pus, etc., from the face or scalp, before an antiseptic 
solution is applied. Various solutions may be used to 
advantage. A twenty-five to fifty per cent, solution of 
grain alcohol in water, perfumed to suit, makes an effi- 
cient and pleasant antiseptic face wash. Witch hazel 
water, or witch hazel extract, which is generally pur- 
chased in drug stores under the name of witch hazel, 
if not diluted too much, is a good disinfectant. Bay- 
rum not adulterated, is valuable. Witch hazel and bay 
nmi owe their relative antiseptic power to the amount 
of alcohol they contain. There are many other disin- 
fectants that may be used on tlie face, but they are no 
better, or are inferior in value to the above mentioned. 



46 



DISINFECTION OF THE RAZOR 

For the disinfection of the razor various methods 
may be employed, but only those that do not injure its 
cutting edge, or its handle, can be used. One of the 
most valuable antiseptics for this purpose is alcohol. 
Undiluted grain alcohol is the best, and should be used. 
The razor and its handle should be thoroughly washed 
in warm water and soap so as to remove all particles of 
skin, blood, serum, pus, etc., rinsed, and boiling water 
poured over blade. After this is done the whole razor 
is submerged in alcohol kept in a tray or wide-necked 
bottle, and left there for several minutes to any time 
desired. When taking out, dry on a clean towel. The 
above applies to razors with bone, horn or rubber han- 
dles. Some handles of razors are made of metal, which 
may be disinfected by placing the v/hole razor into a 
pan with water, to which a small amount of soda is 
added, and boiling it for a few minutes, take out and 
place it in alcohol as m^entioned before. A razor thus 
treated is as aseptic as it can be made. There are many 
other antiseptics that may be employed, such as car- 
bolic acid, lysol, etc., but they are not as practicable to 
the barber as is alcohol. Carbolic acid and lysol may 
be used in 5% strength solution. Formaldehyde, cor- 
rosive sublimate and peroxide of hydrogen may spoil 
the razor. 



47 



DISINFECTION OF THE STROP 

To disinfect a barber's strop is not very easy to ac- 
complish. In general, strops are somewhat greasy, 
which prevents aqueous antiseptic solutions from pene- 
trating into the leather. Strong chemicals, and various 
other non-aqueous antiseptics that will penetrate, are 
injurious to the leather. If it is desired to clean and 
disinfect the strop it will be necessary to remove the 
grease first, which can best be done with a piece of 
muslin soaked in gasoline, and rubbed over strop until 
all grease has been removed. After this the strop 
should be given a light coating of beef tallow previously 
warmed, so as to penetrate more readily into the lea- 
ther. This procedure will give the strop its original 
smoothness as far as it is possible. By placing strops 
in an air-tight box and fumigating them, is of no value, 
because the fumes of the chemicals do not penetrate the 
greasy substance on the strop any more than do aque- 
ous antiseptic solutions. The manner in which a strop 
may be kept fairly free from putrefactive material, and 
from germs of contagious diseases, is as follows : A 
razor should be in good condition before shaving is 
begim. The razor should not be stropped during the 
time of shaving. If it is found to give out before shav- 
ing is completed, a second one should be resorted to, 
unless the first one is thoroughly disinfected before it 
is stropped. The above method will prevent blood, 
serum, pus, putrefactive material, germs and other 
dangerous particles from being smeared onto the strop 
and infecting it. 



48 



DISINFECTION OF CUP AND BRUSH 

Cups should be thoroughly washed in warm water 
and soap, placed in boiling hot water, or boiling hot 
water poured over them slowly, to prevent cracking. 

Shaving brushes should be washed in warm water 
and soap, rinsed, the water pressed out with a clean 
towel, and dipped in alcohol. The superfluous alcohol 
may be pressed out, and the brush placed into the cup. 
If brush is supplied with a metallic handle, both may be 
disinfected as above stated. If the brush has a handle 
made of wood or other material, and enameled, it 
should never be used when dealing with contagious 
diseases. In such cases make the lather in the cup, lay 
the brush aside, and apply the lather to the face with 
your fingers. The cup can easily be disinfected, but not 
so the enameled handle of the brush, because boiling 
water will not only injure the brush, but also the en- 
amel of the handle, and if alcohol is used it will surely 
destroy the latter. 



DISINFECTION OF COMBS 

Combs, if made of bone, horn, or rubber, should be 
scrubbed well with a brush in warm water and soap, 
rinsed and laid in alcohol, or alcohol applied to them. 

Combs made of metal may be disinfected as above 
mentioned, or they may be boiled in water for about 
five to ten minutes. 



DISINFECTION OF HAIR BRUSHES 

The hair brush is probably one of the barber's most 
used article to which the least attention is given in re- 

49 



gard to its disinfection, and is also one of the hardest 
to disinfect, on account of its peculiar construction. 

The handles and backs of hair brushes are generally 
made of rubber, metal, celluloid, or wood, enameled or 
painted, or varnished. Brushes should be washed fre- 
quently in warm water and some antiseptic soap. If 
handles and backs of brushes are made of rubber, metal 
or celluloid, alcohol may be used as a disinfectant, 
either pure or diluted, after being washed. If enameled, 
painted or varnished, no alcohol should be used. A 
thorough cleaning of such hair brushes can be accom- 
plished by the use of gasoline, which will remove all 
greasy particles that may have adhered to the brush, 
and if soap and warm water are used thereafter it will 
render the brush fairly aseptic. 



DISINFECTION OF FORCEPS AND TWEEZERS 

Forceps, tweezers and other metallic instruments 
should be disinfected by boiling, each and every time 
after they have been used, and just before being used, 
wipe them with a little absorbent cotton soaked with 
alcohol. 



DISINFECTION OF TOWELS, APRONS, LINENS 

These are best disinfected by boiling in soap water. 
No antiseptic solutions are required thereafter. 



50 



VIBRATORY MASSAGE 

Massage machines are at present comparatively rare 
in barber shops, and this may be the reason that they 
are so often used indiscriminately as to their value, or 
the harm they may produce. The more they will be 
employed, the more will the advantages and disad- 
vantages be studied. Most barbers of today use them 
not for the physiological value that may be obtained by 
them, but only for the psychological effect they produce 
on patrons. In common words, it is a machine, and at 
present used in a machinelike manner. These ma- 
chines are of value in selected cases, where stimulation 
of the skin is required, and where such stimulation is 
not indicated, their use does harm. 



DISINFECTION OF VIBRATODES 

Vibratodes are attachments, some of which are made 
of soft, others of hard rubber, that come in actual con- 
tact with the skin during the time of massering. The 
most frequently used are those made of soft rubber, 
and are bell-shaped. Those made of hard rubber are 
more painful to the patient. The misuse of the vi- 
bratodes by some barbers lies in the unscrupulous and 
ignorant manner in which they use them. They attach 
them to the handle of the machine all right, and also 
may know how the machine is started and stopped, but 
they seldom or never think of taking them off for dis- 
infection. Vibratodes must be detached after each 
treatment, washed and disinfected. Those made of soft 
rubber can be boiled in water from five to ten minutes. 
Soft rubber stands boiling fairly well, although in time 
is inclined to soften. Another good method by which 



the soft, as well as the hard rubber vibratodes can be 
disinfected, is to wash them thoroughly in warm water 
and germicidal soap, rinse, dry, and place them in a 
dish containing alcohol, for several minutes. After 
that they are ready for use. 



52 



STYPTICS 

Styptics are agents that arrest bleeding. Some of 
the styptics employed by barbers are : Alum in lump, 
powder, or in solution, powdered burned alum, th^ 
styptic pencil, sugar of lead, sulphate of zinc and others. 
Alum in lump form must never be used to arrest bleed- 
ing by any barber. The reason for this is, that sa a 
rule lump alum is allowed to lie around on the shelves 
exposed, handled freely by the septic hands of the bar- 
ber, and then is applied to a bleeding surface. Blood, 
serum and germs adhere to it, and the next patron 
gets them, commonly speaking, rubbed into himself. 
As a barber, would you willingly expose yourself to 
such a treatment, knowing that the person previously 
shaved, and on whom lump alum has been used, had 
syphilis or another contagious disease? Is the barber 
so sure that the person he is shaving has no contagi- 
ous disease, and that lump alum can be used on him 
without endangering others to be shaved thereafter? 

Some barbers of today have discovered a new plan 
to sidetrack the eyes of the inspectors of the state 
hcensing board in regard to the use of alum, by placing 
It m their coat pockets, to be used at will. By such a 
practice the barber not only hides his own ignorance, 
but preserves disease germs for the next patron. Don't 
do that. The use of lump alum is against the Wiscon- 
sin State laws for barbers, against the rules of hygiene, 
and against common sense. There is no reason for its 
employment, except stubbornness, or ignorance. If you 
are still using lump alum, throw it away before you 
make some one miserable for his lifetime, with one or 
another dreadful disease. Alum in powdered or liquid 
form is the best, cleanest, and safest styptic, if properly 
used. A clean toothpick, moistened with water, dipped 
into the powdered alum, and applied to a cut, is very 

53 



practicable. Alum in solution may be applied in a sim- 
ilar manner, with a little absorbent cotton wound 
around one end of the toothpick. A toothpick should 
never be used a second time. An ordinary medicine 
dropper will also answer the purpose. 

The styptic pencil employed so frequently in former 
years has, we are glad to say, been discarded, and we 
hope that it will never again make its appearance in 
barber shops. 

Sugar of lead and sulphate of zinc may be em- 
ployed as styptics in solutions of from three to five per 
cent, in distilled water. 



54 



FACE FOMENTATIONS 

The practice of applying wet, hot towels before or 
after shaving have their advantage and disadvantage. 
When the skin is somewhat irritable, red and inflamed 
after shaving, fomentations of wet, hot towels produce 
a soothing effect, and are very agreeable to the person 
shaved, but their disadvantage lies in the inhalation of 
the steam produced by them, which causes a congestion 
of the mucous membrane of the nose, making it more 
sensitive to the effects of cold, and giving the nose a 
feeling as being stuffed up. You often have heard peo- 
ple say that they caught a cold in their nose, which 
many times if traced, would be found due to hot fomen- 
tations. Wet, cold towels, applied to the face after 
shaving will have an opposite effect on the mucous 
membrane, but they will not be agreeable to the person 
shaved. For washing off the soap from the face after 
shaving, it will be best to use water at a temperature of 
about 60 degrees. 

The towels should be discarded after fomentations 
are made, and must never be used on other persons 
without being previously boiled. The practice to lay 
such towels on marble slabs or shelves, or let them lie 
around on wash basins to await the next customer, 
should be condemned. Use a clean towel for every 
person, or none at all. By applying wet, hot fomenta- 
tions to the face before shaving, the blood supply of 
the skin is increased, which makes the ground more 
fertile for the absorption of disease germs, and is 
therefore not recommended. 



55 



DUSTING POWDER 

There is not much to be said about dusting pow- 
ders. Each barber may use the one he prefers. Dust- 
ing powders should never be applied with powder puffs, 
or rubbed into the skin by the barber's hands. A 
sprinkling device may be considered the most prac- 
ticable, and also the most sanitary. Lump magnesia 
should never be used. 



BATHS 

Bathtubs must be cleansed after each bath. Wash 
soda added to the v/ater when cleaning bathtubs is of 
service. Fresh, clean towela must be furnished for 
each bath, and the towels should never be dried and 
used a second time without previous boiling. The bar- 
ber should not forget to look after the combs and hair 
brushes of his bathrooms, and should not forget to 
keep them clean. The bath brush so often seen in bar- 
ber shop bathrooms is not sanitary, and it probably 
would be better if it were discarded. 



56 



ANTISEPTIC SOAPS 

Some of the antiseptic-germicidal soaps that are of 
value for disinfection for the barber's hands and his 
instruments are : 

Corrosive sublimate soap H%- 

Lysol soap 5 to 10%. 

Carbolic acid and glycerine soap 5%. 

Formaldehyde soap. 

Creolin soap 5%. 

Green soap. 

Corrosive sublimate soap is a good antiseptic, germi- 
cidal and odorless soap. 

Carbolic acid and lysol soaps are valuable, but leave 
a very disagreeable and lasting odor. 

Formaldehyde soap may be used. It has a pungent 
odor which is not lasting. 

Green soap, which can be bought at every drug store, 
may be considered as the best all round soap for the 
barber. It is of a semi-solid consistency, has no dis- 
agreeable odor, and is not expensive. 



57 



CONDEMNED RELICS OF THE OLD-TIME 
BARBER SHOP 

Under this heading are mentioned such articles that 
were formerly used in barber shops and considered at 
one time or another a necessity, but have been discarded 
by most barbers as unhygienic, and disease-carrying ac- 
cessories. They include finger bowls, powder puffs, 
lump magnesia, lump alum, and the styptic pencil. 

While all of the above articles have been fully dis- 
cussed in other parts of this book, nevertheless, it can- 
not be impressed too strongly on the mind of every 
barber, that such articles must never be used. At the 
present time we have other articles that accomplish the 
same usefulness, and which are more sanitary at the 
same time. 



58 



QUESTIONS THAT WILL AID THE APPREN- 
TICE IN HIS FINAL EXAMINATION 

1 Give the name of the most external layer of the 

skin. 

2 State whether the epidermis has blood supply or 

not? 

3 Into which layer of the skin must you cut to pro- 

duce bleeding? 

4 Give the name of the glands that produce per- 

spiration. 

5 Give the name of the glands that produce the oili- 

ness of the skin. 

6 Name the two chief varieties of blood vessels. 

7 Which are the most superficially located blood ves- 

sels, the veins or the arteries? 

8 Is there any difference in the color of the blood 

of arteries, from that of veins? Explain. 

9 In former years when cupping was practiced by the 

barbers, what kind of blood was extracted, 
venous or arterial? 



59 



10 In drawing off blood from the skin by cupping it 

is often said that only the bad blood is drawn. 
What is your opinion? 

11 What furnishes the nutrition to the hair? 

12 Describe the functions of the skin. 

13 Give an example of a macule. 

14 What is the common name for papule? 

15 What do vesicles contain? 

16 What do pustules contain? 

17 From which layer of the skin are scales pro- 

duced? 

18 What are scales? 

19 Name one disease of the skin in which scales are 

produced. 

20 What may cause the formation of scales? 

21 Give substances that may enter into the composi- 

tion of a crust. 

22 Name one contagious disease in which you ex- 

pect to find crusts. 

23 A cut deep into the skin after being healed up, re- 

sults in what? 

24 Is a scar a permanent disfiguration? 

25 Give the common name for syphilis. 

26 How may a barber contract syphilis from a per- 

son while shaving him? 

60 



27 Is syphilis a contagious disease? 

28 Is syphilis a chronic disease or not? 

29 Name as many ways as you can how syphilis may 

be contracted. 

30 What causes ringworm? 

31 Is ringAvorm contagious or not? 

32 At what ages do we most often find ringworm on 

the scalp? 

33 Ringworm of the bearded region is most common 

between what ages? 

34 Name some animals that are prone to ringworm. 

35 What appearance do the hair present in ringworm 

of the beard or scalp? 

36 Describe the spreading of a patch of ringworm. 

37 By what commonly used name is ringworm best 

known? 

38 How may ringworm be contracted in barber 

shops? 

39 What causes impetigo contagiosa? 

40 State whether impetigo contagiosa is highly, feeb- 

ly, or not contagious at all. 

41 Can impetigo contagiosa be contracted in barber 

shops? 

42 How may impetigo contagiosa be contracted in 

barber shops? State fully. 

61 



43 Is impetigo contagiosa often contracted in barber 

shops ? 

44 What in your opinion is the cause that so many 

persons contract impetigo contagiosa in bar- 
ber shops? State fully. 

45 If you were obliged to shave a person afflicted 

with impetigo contagiosa on the face, how 
would you proceed? 

46 What would you do immediately after shaving a 

person with impetigo contagiosa? 

47 At about what age would you expect to find favus 

most often? 

48 Is favus a contagious disease or not? 

49 What causes favus? 

50 On what part of the body do we most often see 

favus ? 

51 Do we have crust form.ation in favus? 

52 From what animals is favus often contracted? 

53 Is Erysipelas contagious? 

54 Supposing a person with erysipelas presents him- 

self at your shop for a shave, what would you 
do? 

55 Give the most favored locality for erysipelas. 

56 If you are not certain that a case of alopecia areata 

is contagious or not, and yet you intend to 
shave or cut hair, what are you to do? 

57 Name most favored locality for alopecia areata. 

62 



58 What is destroyed in alopecia areata? 

59 Describe a patch of alopecia areata. 

60 Is acne contagious or not? 

61 Which is the most favored locality for acne? 

62 How are blackheads caused, and by what? 

63 Is acne rosacea always caused by the excessive 

use of alcoholics? 



64 What value, if any, is there in hair singeing? 

65 What would you advise for split hair? 

66 From which layer of the skin is dandruff pro- 

duced? 

67 Will an inflammation of the skin of the scalp 

cause dandruff or not? 

68 Suppose a person has contracted a contagious 

disease in a barber shop, to what in your 
opinion would you attribute the cause? 

69 What is sepsis? 

70 What do you understand by the word asepsis? 

71 Antiseptics, what are they? 

72 Explain the meaning of disinfection. 

73 What are disinfectants? 

74 How would you disinfect your hands? 

75 Why should you disinfect your hands after shav- 

ing some one with a contagious disease? 

63 



76 How should your hands be treated before you 

apply an antiseptic on them? 

77 Which in your opinion is the best disinfectant for 

the barber's hands? 

78 Mention two disinfectants for the hands, and how 

employed. 

79 Name two disinfectants for the face and how em- 

ployed. 

80 Disinfect a razor with a bone, horn or rubber 

handle. 

81 Disinfect a razor with a metallic handle. 

82 How would you treat a razor before you disinfect 

it? 

83 How can a strop be made fairly aseptic? 

84 What value, if any, has fumigation as a disin- 

fectant for the strop ? 

85 How would you disinfect a shaving cup? 

86 How would you disinfect a shaving brush? 

87 Supposing a person with a contagious disease pre- 

sents himself for a shave, how would you 
make the soap lather, and how should you 
apply it to the face? 

88 Give a method for disinfection of combs. 

89 State how you would disinfect a hair brush. 

90 How would you disinfect forceps and tweezers? 

91 How often do you think it necessary to disinfect 

forceps and tweezers? 



92 Give the only good method for disinfection of 

towels, aprons and other linens used in bar- 
ber shops. 

93 What is your object in giving vibratory massage? 

94 For what conditions of the skin is vibratory mas- 

sage indicated? 

95 How often must vibratodes be disinfected? 

96 Name the styptic that you would use to arrest 

bleeding. 

97 How would you arrest bleeding? State fully. 

98 What is your opinion of the use of lump alum? 

99 Why should lump alum not be used to arrest 

bleeding? 

100 In what forms may alum be used to arrest bleed- 

ing? 

101 Explain how you would use powdered alum? 

102 How would 5'ou apply alum in solution? 

103 Give your opinion as to the advantage or disad- 

vantage of the styptic pencil. 

104 What are antiseptic solutions used for? 

105 How many grains of a chemical docs it take to a 

pint of water, to make a solution of 1 to 1,000 
strength ? 

106 How many grains of a chemical to a quart of 

water to make a solution of 1 to 2,000 
strength? 



65 



107 Approximately, how many teaspoonfuls of car- 

bolic acid are needed to a gallon of water to 
make a solution of 1 to 500 strength? 

108 How many ounces of alcohol are necessary for a 

pint solution of 25% strength? 

109 Supposing you had a pint bottle in which you 

wanted to make an alcoholic solution of a 25% 
strength, and had nothing to measure with, 
how much alcohol, and how much water would 
you put into the bottle? 

110 Make an ounce of a 2% carbolic solution. 

111 Figure out correctly the amount of a chemical 

needed to make a pint solution of a 3% 
strength. 

112 How do you apply dusting powders to the face? 



66 



NOTICE 

The "Progressive Barber" can be purchased from all 
leading barber supply dealers or direct from the sec- 
retary of The Wisconsin State Barbers' Board, Mil- 
waukee, Wis., for the price of $1.00. 



67 



INDEX 

Page 
A 

Abnormal conditions of the skin 12 

Acne rosacia 32 

Acne Vulgaris 31 

Alopecia 29 

Alopecia areata 29 

Anatomy of the skin 5 

Antiseptic soaps 57 

Antiseptic solution— how to make them 41 

Atrophy of the hair 34 

B 

Barber himself 36 

Barber warming to 18 

Barber's itch • 21 

Baths 56 

Blebs 13 

Blood vessels 7 

C 

Condemned relics of the old time barber shop 58 

Corium 6 

Corneous layer of the skin 6 

Crusts 13 

D 

Dandruff 33 

Disinfectants 40 

68 



Page 

Disinfection 40 

Of Apron 50 

Combs 49 

Cups 49 

Face 46 

Forceps 50 

Hair brush 49 

Hands 44 

Linens 50 

Razor 47 

Scalp 46 

Shaving brush 49 

Strop 48 

Towels 50 

Tweezers 50 

Vibratodes 51 

Dusting powder 56 

E 

Epidermis 6 

Erysipelas 26 

Examination questions 59 

F 

Face fomentations 55 

Favus 25 

Fomentations of face 55 

Functions of the skin 11 

H 

Hair 9 

Atrophy of 34 

Ingrown 35 

Rare diseases of 35 



69 



Page 

Singeing 36 

Split 34 

Superfluous 34 

Horny layer of the skin 6 

How to make antiseptic solutions 41 

I 

Impetigo contagiosa 23 

Ingrown hair 35 

Introduction 15 

L 

Lupus erythematosus 28 

Lupus Vulgaris 27 

M 

Macules 12 

Massage vibratory 51 

Mucous layer of the skin 6 

N 

Nails 10 

Nerves 8 

Nodules 12 

P 

Papules 12 

Pores of the skin 5 

Pox 16 

Preface 3 

Pustules 13 

Q 

Questions that will aid the apprentice in his final 
examination 59 

70 



Page 
R 

Rare diseases of the hair 'S't 

R ingworm 20 

Ringworm of the bearded region 21 

Ringworm of the general surface 21. 

Ringworm of the scalp 20 

S 

Scales 13 

Scars 14 

Sebaceous Glands 9 

Seborrhoea 30 

Sepsis 40 

Singeing of hair 36 

Skin 5 

Abnormal conditions 12 

Anatomy 5 

Color 6 

Corium 6 

Epidermis 6 

Functions 11 

Horny layer 6 

Pores 5 

Stratum corneum 6 

Stratum granulosum 

Stratum lucidum 6 

Stratum mucosum G 

True skin 6 

Soaps, antiseptic 57 

Split hair Vj4 

Sterilization 40 

Styptics 53 

Subcutaneous tissue 7 

Superfluous hair 34 

71 



Page 

Sweat glands 8 

Syphilis 10 

Second stage 17 

Primary stage 16 

Third stage 17 

T 

The barber himself 30 

True skin 5 

Tumors 12 

U 

Ulcers 14 

V 

Vesicles 13 

Vibratodes, disinfection of 51 

Vibratory massage 51 

Vibratory massage machines 51 

W 

Warning to barber 18 



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